Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a global network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," as stated by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always characterized its essence: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their children are reluctant to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to learn these narratives and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
